The Perfect Swiss Getaway

I've just returned from a couple of weeks outside the small city of Bologna, knee-deep in my overdraft but happily refreshed after treating my eyes (and nose) to a view other than red walls and poo-laiden porticos. (No offense Bologna.)

Zürich and London were my two stops, and since there are already plenty of pointers on where to go in the latter, I will take this opportunity to propose a couple for the former, just in case you ever manage to find the opportunity (and by all means, if you do, grab it) to drop by.

Having a sibling that has lived in Zürich for the past four years not only means free accommodation, but a lot of good spots already picked out for you. No guidebooks or faffing (though a couple of minutes perusing this page would be well spent).

A Poushe strudel to salivate over 

Skipping breakfast and moving on to lunch might not be such a bad idea when you head over for your mahoosive Poushe strudel.
They have sweet and savoury strudels as well as cakes and cookies, and for under 20 CHF you can get this big baby with as much salad as you can fit on the rest of your plate (stacking, piling, squishing are key techniques).
The Poushe I popped into was here and is not hard to reach from the city centre. Italy has left me ever grateful for clean, functioning public transport and Zurich definitely has that in the bag.


An Afternoon of Art at Kunsthaus Zürich 

I'm usually not much of a gallery-goer, but on this occasion was ordered to visit Kunsthaus by an artist friend back in Bo. I ended up spending an entire afternoon here. They have an expressionist exhibition on at the moment, until the 11th of May 2014, which is definitely worth a visit. As a student I paid 17 CHF (full price is 22) and spents hours devouring every detail with my eyes. (On Wednesdays you can visit the galleries main exhibits for free.)


A Peaceful Pause at Piazza


Piazza is perfect for a catch up coffee with a friend or a quiet tea break after a long day of strudel-munching and art-gazing.
I've been here on a few occassions now and there are always people tapping away on their laptops, sipping coffee with friends or having a quiet tea with a newspaper at hand.

It's located in Idaplatz and has been my go-to cafe for study sessions and blog-writing afternoons during all of my stays in Zürich. (It's also close to Poushe, the strudelhaus I mentioned above - bonus!)

Just outside, dotted along the piazza in which this place is located, there are some other small places worth a peek; stationary shops, restaurants and cafes.

Unwind by Bouldering at Minimum

After a long day of desk-work and tram-riding, there is nothing like a good climb.

This happens to be the place where I popped my bouldering cherry and I must say it has me hooked. It's a great way to build strength and is much more difficult than it looks, not to mention much less dull than pumping iron in the gym.

The nicely challenging routes, fascinatingly good-looking and muscular climbers, and vibe of the place are only a few of its charms that will having you going back for more.

It is open until late and has a nice cafe/bar area where you can sit for a break between climbs or have a lounge around with a beer and a slice of quiche afterwards. It's here.




So there we have it, a few things that you could fit in to a day or two if you ever visit Zürich.
A bit of an unplanned, off-topic post but hopefully of interest to some all the same.

To anyone staying in Bologna, it is only a 5 hour journey by train up to Zürich with one change at Milano Centrale. The views between Milan and Zürich, through the mountains and past the lakes, make the whole trip worthwhile and enjoyable and it is definitely a journey that I can recommend.

Happy Sunday!

Just when you think you've heard it all

I've mentioned before that Bologna is a small city which can at times be stiflingly so, especially coming from London.
But there is something much more delightful and pleasing about stumbling upon a new, unbeknownst trinket in a city the size of Bologna, that simply isn't experienced in the same way in a metropolis as large as London.

When it comes to London, I am fully in the know that I haven't even scraped the surface of the city; there are whole zones that I have never visited and many a main streets that I don't even know exists. Bear in mind, this is after two years of living in the very heart of it. The countless alleyways, various nooks and innumerable crannies mean that when you do stumble upon something new, it is a sort of unanticipated expectation; pleasant all the same but more a matter of what and when you will discover something, on any given expedition, than if you will or won't. You could stay in London your whole life and still have plenty of places waiting to be discovered, tucked away in the crease of a map or hiding behind a double decker bus. In comparison, Bologna comes across as much more conquerable, almost to the point of being boring; it is easy to forget that despite its modest size it is just as venous in its network of vicoli and backstreets.

So, when, with the guidance of your local friends, you veer into a sliver of the city that you have never explored, it is like uncovering a gem that you've been sitting on all along. Spending more time with my Bolognese friends has, unsurprisingly, led to a couple of new discoveries - little venues off the beaten track of Bolo, happily minding their own business, happily hidden, yet also happy to be found.

I present to you:

Bar Senza Nome

Literally meaning "Bar No Name" this cosy little venue serves nibbles and drinks and plays good music. It's quietly propped on one of the many alleyways of Bologna, just at the rear end of the Mercato delle Erbe. So what makes it so unique? Well, it was first described to me as il "Bar dei Sordi" which translates to "the Bar of the Deaf", as it is a bar run by a small group of deaf and mute people. Naturally, ordering your drink comes to involve a lot of hand-gesturing (even for Italian standards), exaggerated mouthing of words and a fair amount of lip-reading - because the staff are almost all deaf.

It's a simple bar that harbours a range of customers, from non-deaf to deaf and mute people, all flocking here for the same purpose: a drink and a chat in a relaxed space. It invites a mix of young customers silently conversing away with their hands, intermittently pausing for a sip of their drink, as well as older men gesturing to each other over mouthfuls of mortadella panini (unforeseen pro of sign language: you can talk with your mouth full without revealing the contents of it). The bartenders here are friendly, the appending toilet signs are handwritten and playfully drawn with pictures explaining the correct sign language for "WC" and the place tinkles with noise, chatter and music just like any other bar. Regardless of whether you can hear any of it or not, it is a welcoming space and enjoyable to everyone. For Bologna-dwellers out there that don't know of this place, this one I will leave for you to seek out. So keep your eyes peeled, or whatever functioning senses you have at your disposal (I, for one, am as blind as a bat), and go for a wander around the vicoli and vie behind the market... you might just manage to sniff it out too.

Opening times: Tues - Sat 15.00 - 3.00, Sun 15.00 - 23.00

Images one, two, and three.